Sunday, July 13, 2008

Sweet Tea and Cigarettes


Alright, alright... I realize that one post does not a blog make... and holy crap do I have some catching up to do!

First, some more essential Natchitoches trivia: don't drink the water. People keep sayin' that to me but no one can tell just what's wrong with the stuff. My theory is that it's some conspiracy perpetrated by Evian or mayhaps the Miller Brewing Co. to coax the unquestioning Natchitochian into purchasing more of their products. It doesn't seem like the brewing companies have much to worry about in this town though! Neither do the producers of sugar or cigarettes. In lieu of potable water, one is always sure to find plenty of refreshing ice tea to provide the body with essential hydration. That is, lest you have diabetes... tea around here is served sweet- a typical recipe balances about five cups of sugar to every gallon of tea. I shit you not! You can feel your teeth rotting as you slurp the gluconated sludge down.

Sidewalks, WTF! This town definitely ain't made for walking, which is good 'cause no one does. Sidewalks in Nakatosh have a tendency to end abruptly and if you do happen across a decent stretch of concrete, it either has a telephone pole obstacle course to impede your stroll or is awkwardly elevated five feet off the ground... one misstep and it's straight into the street where you can be sure your fallen carcass wont interfere with the progress of passing automobilists. And if you should like to cross to the shady side of the street to avoid contracting heat stroke in your perpetually dehydrated condition, think again. Grandma in her F-350 ain't about to be late to bingo at the church.

I'm not complaining though. Things are different in the South. And what they lack in basic municipal infrastructure is all made up for in their drive-thru liquor stores and cheap, I'm talkin' $2.50 a pack, cigarettes. Drive-thru liquor stores, hah! A sign above the service window reminds you not to drink and drive as they hand you a daquari though your driver-side window. Laws here are a bit of a farse. A bumpy ride down one of Louisiana's notoriously crappy roads serves to remind you that until they signed up with the Federal highway code (which mandates silly things like drunk driving laws) in the early 90s, that last great bastion of states' rights didn't receive a lick of Uncle Sam's asphalt money.

Speaking of states' rights... Louisiana has it's own little north-south divide and like Upstate New York and Southern Illinois there's an ongoing rivalry within the state. To any south Louisianan, everything above I-10 is deep-fried red-neck country devoid of good music, food, or culture in general. To the folks in the northern part of the state, south Louisiana is the home of those Cajun treats like boudin (boo-dan, a spicy sausage filled with rice and something else), Creole good-cookin', Francophile cities like Baton Rouge, Lafayette, and of course New Orleans that you want to visit whenever you've got Friday off and a few extra bucks in your pocket.

So far, I haven't got much flak for being on the opposing team of that bigger North-South rivalry. Maybe that's because my accent seems to assimilate to wherever I am. I fit right in as I walk down the street smoking my pipe in my straw and linen trousers, saying howdy to everyone I pass... including the little black boy on the bicycle who stopped and stared, yelling "fuck the KKK" behind me after I had made my way up the street.

You can't generalize ;o)

Next post I promise I'll tell you about the frat boys who kidnapped me in the back of their pickup truck, brought me to a keg party, and enabled my defacement of church property.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Po' Boy in Nacho-toe-cheese


...well, at least that's what my friend Natalie calls it.

It's two weeks into my summer with the Park Service in Louisiana. I'm living in this little town called Natchitoches which is one of those places with a name that no two tongues pronounce the same... most folks say "naka-dish" though. It's also one of those places that you can see in a day(or an hour) but never really understand until you live there... eh, maybe no one ever gets it! The locals exude a nice air of southern-style politeness and strangers will go out of their way to wave and say hello... one bloke actually stopped his push lawnmower to wave good morning to me last Saturday. (Those damn things can be a royal pain in the patoot to get started again.)

I've been neglectin' this bloggin' thing for awhile, so here's a rundown to catch everybody up:

The first night, my host welcomed me with the traditional birthing of the kittens., I was introduced to some delicious Cajun sausage called boudin that had rice (and who knows what else) in it, and some random guy jumped in a hammock with me... awkward!

I met the coworkers the next day and my boss, a handkerchief totin' guy cut from the same cloth as I... good people all around.

Friday night was a trip to some resturant out in the boonies with a singing deer head mounted to the wall, waiters dressed in RealTree (trade mark) camouflage (my host was surprised that I could identify the specific pattern), children singing karaoke, and a po' boy sandwich the size of a cat! Oh, and my friend Billy revealed that he was taught how to fish by his mother's boy friend, a chap who just happened to be one of Louisiana's most infamous serial killers but, in all other respects, was a real nice guy.

Saturday held a trip to the gator farm with a gift shop that stocked the most extensive medieval arsenal outside of the British Museum: check out some pics

Best part about the gator park... not the alligators, their succulent flesh, or the random animals in the petting zoo but, some guy wearing cowboy boots with short pants. You can't get more Louisiana than that!

That night, took a trip to a swimming hole called "the falls"... when you've lived in Ithaca, a six foot drop does not a waterfall make! There my party and I had the unfortunate experience of witnessing a redneck orgy. (shudder)

What else?... The other interns and I took a field trip to a couple of cotton plantations where I learned that the ol' Creoles liked to keep fancy pigeon coups what for to supply youngling birds for a classic French delicacy... squab on toast! What's that? You're disgusted? Well, that's all the more for moi!

That pretty much brings us up to last night when I met Lafayette Zach, Tim (who doesn't beat his old lady, just old ladies in general), and Brother Michael, a harp-playing, nude-painting, robe-wearing, vodka-drinking, monk, at a bar downtown... the only bar downtown! Brother Michael, now clean-shaven because people were confusing him with a rabbi or Russian Orthodox priest, invited me to his "hermitage" which he described as being two blocks away, next to Texas, with religious statuary in the front yard. I plan to visit... if I can walk to Texas from here?

This summer promises to be interesting to say the least.

And so I'm off on another Chopstastic voyage.... Ah-eee!